Unveiled in Taormina, Sicily, simply final week, Bvlgari’s newest excessive jewelry providing, Polychroma, locations color on the centre of its artistic imaginative and prescient this yr—each actually and conceptually. The identify itself is a intelligent portmanteau: “poly” for a lot of, “chroma” for color, and a refined nod to “Roma,” the model’s dwelling. For Lucia Silvestri, Bvlgari’s artistic director of excessive jewelry, it was the proper place to begin for a set that leans into daring combos, uncommon gem stones, and design-led craftsmanship. On this dialog, Silvestri walks us by way of the considering behind the designs, the challenges of working with extraordinary stones and why jewelry needs to be worn with ease and persona.
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Pakkee Tan (PK): I preserve going again to the fantastic play on phrases on this assortment. What was the start line for Polychroma for you?
Lucia Silvestri (LS): First, we thought concerning the theme of the gathering, after all. Once I heard the theme was Polychroma—“poly” that means many, “chroma” that means colors, and “Roma” on the finish—I assumed it was sensible. The concept of starting with color actually resonated with me. We all the time work with color, however for this assortment, we positioned much more emphasis on it.
PK: Did you’re employed with any historic or inventive references whereas designing Polychroma?
LS: Historic references? Not precisely. We did take a look at the archives for inspiration, however we weren’t attempting to duplicate something particular. One essential lesson I discovered from Mr Bulgari was: “Don’t copy your self.”
PK: There are some actually beautiful items on this assortment. May you stroll us by way of just a few of your favourites?
LS: It’s very tough to select a favorite—I really like all of them! These items are like my kids. However I can share one…
PK: Ah, the Cosmic Vault necklace.
LS: Within the gallery, now we have what we name the 5 Wonders—5 distinctive jewels. Every was a problem, by way of the stones, the craftsmanship, and the design. We wished to shock folks with these extraordinary artworks. It’s not simply Bvlgari, not simply gem stones—it’s design and craftsmanship coming collectively.
As an illustration, there’s a 123-carat sapphire from Sri Lanka. My dream was to discover a sapphire bigger than the 66-carat one Elizabeth Taylor had in her necklace—particularly, a sugarloaf minimize that was even larger. Lastly, I discovered it, and we started designing round it. We took inspiration from a brocade curtain we noticed in Venice. You’ll be able to’t see the again of the necklace right here, but it surely’s magnificent.
PK: What was the biggest stone you labored with on this assortment? Any specific challenges?
LS: The most important is a 241-carat emerald—the most important faceted emerald Bvlgari has ever used. Beforehand, we mounted a 300-carat cabochon, however this one is faceted. It’s extraordinary in color, transparency, and minimize—actually certainly one of a sort. The concept was to focus all consideration on the stone, with out dropping Bvlgari’s distinctive design contact. We stored the setting geometric, nearly Artwork Deco, however easy and fashionable. You continue to see the necklace, however the emerald instructions all the eye.
PK: Was it difficult to work with an emerald of this dimension?
LS: Completely. Emeralds are delicate. We went by way of many sketches earlier than finalising the design. We began engaged on this piece round two years earlier than the gathering’s launch.
PK: I noticed the Contained in the Dream documentary in 2023—it confirmed how a lot iteration and planning goes into utilizing a single stone. Was this the same course of?
LS: Each stone has its personal story. This one was totally different from the 93-carat cabochon you talked about. However sure, every gem requires its personal distinctive strategy.
PK: What’s your private philosophy in the case of carrying jewelry? I observe you on Instagram and also you all the time put on it with such joyful abandon.
LS: I really like taking part in with totally different collections—Tubogas, chains, colored gems. I’m all the time in one thing vibrant. I don’t prefer to take issues too significantly; jewelry needs to be playful and produce pleasure. Mixing and matching permits your persona to shine by way of in a singular method.
PK: Do you’re taking the identical strategy with excessive jewelry?
LS: Sure, it’s the identical. I really like carrying massive, stunning necklaces—however after I do, I preserve the earrings easy, even when their color doesn’t match the necklace!
PK: You typically cite India as certainly one of your best sources of gem stones and inspiration. What retains drawing you again?
LS: India is an important nation for me. I began travelling there greater than 40 years in the past. It’s not nearly inspiration—it’s additionally probably the greatest gemstone markets on the earth. The chopping traditions are distinctive, and we collaborate carefully with cutters and tough stone sellers there. I grew up with that custom, and now we proceed to work carefully with them. It’s a long-standing, significant relationship.
PK: You’ve labored with so many gem stones through the years. Are there any dream stones you’ve but to work with?
LS: My dream is to discover a ruby—a vibrant, emerald-cut ruby over 10 carats. That may be unbelievable.
PK: And at last, within the spirit of Polychroma and its Gallery of Wonders, what nonetheless brings you marvel?
LS: So many issues carry me marvel—from jewels to nature to folks. I’m a really curious particular person and I really like life. I discover marvel in seeing issues from totally different angles and views—I attempt to discover magnificence within the easiest of issues. It’s actually about our angle: I like to get pleasure from life and see magnificence in every single place.
This interview has been edited and condensed for readability.
This text was first seen on Grazia Singapore.
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