If you consider Panerai, sure photographs rise to the floor. That sturdy cushion-cased form. The rugged crown-protecting guard. A dial that feels prefer it radiates greater than it glows in the dead of night. After the photographs settle, a phrase usually follows shortly after—Luminor.
Should you didn’t already know, 2025 is the 12 months of the Luminor for Panerai—the gathering that not solely put the model on the map, however onto the wrists of paneristi across the globe, turning into virtually a north star for them.
Similar to its watches, Panerai’s identification is inflexible and unbending—extra so than most, possibly extra so than any. However when a model’s DNA is coiled so tightly round a design philosophy born within the Forties, what area is left for motion and flexibility? For the push and pull, the ebb and stream of developments?
To probe deeper, we talked to Alessandro Ficarelli, Panerai’s Chief Advertising and marketing Officer, to debate all issues Luminor, the cautious dance between the previous and current, and what it’s, precisely, about that hulking silhouette that retains drawing folks again, time and time once more.
What does the Luminor imply to the model?
The Luminor is greater than a cornerstone of our provide: it’s the identification of Panerai in watch type.
Whereas embodying the model’s historic goal as a software watchmaker for the Italian Navy, our Luminor Assortment has continued to evolve through the years with technical and design improvements. Nonetheless, its practical dial design, distinct cushion form, and patented crown-protecting machine have made it immediately recognisable for generations.
In brief, it represents Panerai’s capacity to remain rooted in authenticity whereas pushing ahead at its most interesting.
From supplying watches to the Italian Navy to turning into a luxurious icon, the Luminor has had fairly a journey. Is preserving its navy roots one thing Panerai needs to stay a part of the narrative within the luxurious area?
Panerai’s transformation from a navy provider of high-precision devices to a coveted title within the luxurious watchmaking trade is a testomony to the model’s distinctive enchantment and unmatched heritage.
Its legendary historical past, pushed by actually resonating with a discerning area of interest of watch connoisseurs, drove this outstanding however pure evolution, constantly reflecting the practical design ethos of Panerai’s early devices, engineered for excessive situations.
On this sense, our storytelling will all the time have fun this heritage, because it varieties the very DNA of every new launch, whereas pushing the boundaries of efficiency and innovation.
Panerai’s rise to mainstream reputation was, partially, largely on account of its affiliation with motion movies within the ’90s. Do you see the model returning to the cinematic world anytime quickly?
Whereas we don’t depend on movie placements for consciousness immediately, we stay open to natural collaborations that align with our values — notably when the narrative or character displays themes of braveness, precision, or exploration.
How do you steadiness heritage storytelling with the calls for of a youthful, trend-conscious viewers?
The hot button is relevance with out compromise. Youthful audiences crave authenticity and connection, and Panerai’s heritage gives that in abundance.
Furthermore, the combination of up to date components, equivalent to steel bracelets inside iconic collections just like the Luminor Marina, has the potential to resonate with a youthful and extra various demographic, thereby broadening the model’s market attain whereas staying true to its daring, practical design.
The brand new Luminor Marina PAM03323 exemplifies this, because it reimagines an emblematic mannequin with the introduction of a V-shaped bracelet design, providing a recent perspective on timeless class. The brand new Panerai steel bracelet in a progressive V-shape design not solely tapers from the case to the buckle, providing a lighter really feel for on a regular basis put on, nevertheless it additionally options, for the very first time, the brand new Fast Size Adjustment function, permitting the bracelet to increase by 2mm on either side whereas sustaining good steadiness on the wrist.
All our novelties, furthermore, are typified by the PAM Click on Launch System™ for easy strap modifications, permitting excessive versatility whereas privileging performance.
The Assortment additionally embraces a contemporary spirit by means of technical refinements and color variations that may enchantment to youthful, trend-conscious audiences. The Luminor Marina Titanio PAM03325 showcases an olive-green sun-brushed dial—a nod to the model’s historic navy connection—whereas staging Panerai’s experience in high-tech supplies.
All in all, it’s about taking the DNA that has all the time outlined us and expressing it in ways in which resonate with collectors of tomorrow.
The Panerai Luminor Due assortment options the smallest watches in your repertoire, at 38mm. What’s the smallest Panerai is prepared to go?
All our watches embody Panerai’s core identification: purpose-built, extremely legible devices with a powerful wrist presence. Sustaining the unique practical aesthetic is paramount to staying true to our DNA.
We should always not neglect that our watches had been initially designed for superior legibility in hostile situations, together with night time dives, which is why now we have all the time favoured (and can all the time favour!) beneficiant dimensions.
Do you’re feeling the strain from the market to go even smaller?
Whereas we’re all the time attentive to market developments, we don’t really feel pressured to cut back the dimensions of our watches. Panerai’s dimensions will not be arbitrary; they’re intrinsically linked to our historical past as a provider of extremely legible devices for the Italian Navy.
This dedication to legibility and wrist presence has turn into a defining attribute of the model and a key cause why Panerai is so extremely regarded by watch fans. Our dimensions are a part of our DNA, and we imagine they’re important to the Panerai expertise.
How do you reply to critics who argue that smaller Luminor fashions dilute the model’s daring, masculine identification?
Properly… whereas 38mm represents the “smallest” measurement in our portfolio, it’s vital to do not forget that that is nonetheless thought of a normal males’s measurement for many manufacturers!
Do you see the pattern swinging again in favour of bigger watches sooner or later?
Though wristwatch developments are cyclical, it is very important spotlight that now we have by no means stopped observing a gradual demand for bigger fashions, particularly amongst collectors who worth substance, legibility, and performance of their timepieces.
What’s it about massive watches do you suppose appeals to folks?
Bigger watches carry a way of presence and confidence. They’re legible, practical, and infrequently converse to a way of life of efficiency and journey.
For a lot of Panerai purchasers, the watch turns into a logo of self-expression—one thing that displays not solely style, but additionally goal and identification. There’s additionally the historic hyperlink: Panerai’s authentic devices had been massive as a result of that they had for use by Italian Navy divers in high-stakes environments.
What was Panerai aiming to realize with the brand new Luminor Marina novelties unveiled at Watches and Wonders?
With the brand new Luminor Marina novelties, our intention was to bolster every little thing the Luminor stands for — robustness, technical precision, and unmistakable character—whereas introducing refinements that meet fashionable expectations.
We’ve upgraded the water resistance to 500 metres, built-in the brand new P.980 calibre with stop-seconds and enhanced shock resistance, and launched lighter case constructions together with titanium.
It’s about enhancing real-world performance with out shedding the daring identification that makes the Luminor Marina emblematic.
This text was first seen on ESQUIRE SG.
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