Zenith has the blues, however not the Blues. A 12 months of chaos, although it may be, the Swiss watch model celebrates its a hundred and sixtieth anniversary with a collection of distinctive blue watches, together with an enormous shock that we’ve needed to sit on since February. However extra on that later as a result of it requires some mise-en-scene, as they are saying in filmmaking. CEO Benoit de Clerck tells us excitedly in regards to the agency’s deep roots in Le Locle, having had its headquarters and manufacture there since 1865. As he says, that is an uncommon matter in watchmaking, with no agency at the moment nonetheless occupying its authentic web site and utilizing it for a similar capabilities. A real marvel, this manufacture is as spectacular to de Clerck because it was when he described its virtues to us final 12 months, at Watches and Wonders Geneva.
Our assembly this 12 months isn’t on the honest, for this story, however in Singapore simply after the LVMH Watch Week, with each de Clerck and Product Growth Director Romain Marietta visiting. That is the rationale we don’t get into the anniversary watches, with one exception. Chronologically, that is the primary interview we did for this subject, which winds its solution to you solely now as a result of that is our first print subject after Spring, though Imaginative and prescient is hardly a daily subject. Zenith, for its half, is a mainstay of our protection, as its standing as a maker of very extremely regarded actions befits. The manufacture’s outstanding story – and survival – additionally earns it a spot within the pages of any watch specialty title. It’s no understatement to say that the historical past of Zenith marks nicely the general historical past of Swiss watchmaking.
As Zenith celebrates its momentous birthday, there’s one other method by which it’s completely different to its friends, which de Clerck appropriately factors out is expounded to the manufacture itself. As a result of there are hardly any watch companies which have remained in the identical place since their foundations, most have misplaced all method of untold treasures over many generations. These embrace every part from archive information to tools, most of which Zenith has managed to protect just by advantage of by no means having needed to transfer. After all, de Clerck doesn’t want to say that even Zenith would have misplaced its very coronary heart if watchmaker Charles Vermot had not indulged in a little bit of heroic insubordination.
It’s this coronary heart — the eagerness for mechanical watchmaking, not essentially simply the know-how behind the El Primero — that consumes de Clerck and certainly a lot of his well-known predecessors at Zenith. He would solely trace at what was coming when he met us, at one level even giving us the previous ‘wink, wink,’ actually, and that’s all we are going to say about it. However after all, every part is match to print now, with WWG 2025 firmly within the rear-view mirror. In some ways, we flatter ourselves to assume that watch manufacturers take note of what we write, however with the G.F.J watch, we’re lastly seeing completely different sides to Zenith being introduced into the twenty first century. That is the watch de Clerck was so assured would attraction to you, expensive readers, and to us as nicely. It comes from the archives, however not directlybecause you’ll absolutely realise that Zenith had by no means had a watch within the assortment named after the model’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot.
Chiming in right here was Product Growth Director Romain Marietta, who defined that historical past and legacy provided glorious uncooked supplies for the model. “The secret is choosing the correct watches that may be profitable now,” stated Marietta. “I hope the brand new watch will converse to the viewers (of collectors and connoisseurs).” Powered by the legendary calibre 135, the watch would possibly already be well-known amongst the very group Marietta and de Clerck referenced, because of a particular collection offered by Phillips in affiliation with Bacs and Russo in 2022.
We get into this calibre and the brand new G.F.J watch in our temporary chat with de Clerck and Marietta, with more-than-usual editorial intrusions. All solutions beneath are from de Clerck, besides the place famous, for causes of readability.
You talked so much about your first 100 days as CEO, together with with us. Give us an replace on how issues are going?
It’s been a really attention-grabbing 12 months, with lots of discoveries (for me)…lots of good and enriching issues (and experiences) for me (personally and professionally). Total, it was 12 months (for Zenith), though definitely not a stroll within the park. We talked earlier than in regards to the first 100 days once I took over as CEO, and – I repeat – how very tough it was for me, going via it with out making any judgments, solely listening. It was an excellent lesson as a result of it lets you acquire perspective (on how issues are executed); nevertheless, adjustments have needed to occur and you realize, issues are all the time evolving, which is regular. It’s a part of the job and a part of the journey.
And amongst these adjustments, are there any highlights?
On the product facet, we’ve adjusted and recalibrated; there aren’t any main adjustments. It has not been a 90° flip or a 180. Once more, I’m not right here to alter and drop the ball (by making adjustments for the sake of creating adjustments). I gained’t change every part that has been executed (by my predecessors) as a result of what has been executed has been executed correctly, in order that’s crucial. Can we enhance it? Sure, after all. Can we do issues higher? Sure, after all. There’s all the time room to enhance and that is the problem, you realize, and that is a part of my job and the job of my group.
We mentioned the potential of the model outdoors the core chronograph space beforehand, whereas speaking in regards to the a hundred and sixtieth anniversary this 12 months. Inform us what we will anticipate.
The fantastic thing about Zenith is that the model may be very wealthy in historical past; there’s an enormous archive. This heritage is a really sturdy pillar for Zenith; for us, it’s only a matter of stepping into the archives, digging into the heritage and (in some instances) speaking to individuals who had been working on the manufacture (prior to now). There may be all the time a narrative to find. Don’t neglect we’re celebrating 160 years of being in the identical constructing in order that’s crucial.
You realize, for instance, you could have moved few instances in your life; you load up the mover’s truck after which you could have two or three packing containers left that gained’t match as a result of the truck is full. So, now you realize what to donate to the Salvation Military! The fantastic thing about Zenith is that we’ve all the time been in Le Locle; we’ve by no means moved. So, we saved all of the archives and subsequently we’ve a plethora of choices, of designs. Digging into that is a part of the enjoyable that we’ve with the product group
You additionally requested in regards to the anniversary… you’ll be flabbergasted by the celebration! As a result of what we’ve determined —it’s excellent news—isn’t to enter fireworks. We have now determined to cement and discuss what our model values are and what we’re all about. We’re positively not about fireworks! Fireworks final half an hour after which you could have a pleasant finale for 5 minutes and the subsequent day you get up and also you neglect it. We’re about authenticity; we’re about heritage; and we’re about issues which can be actual. This is essential, and that’s why for the celebration of 160 years, we’re expressing the model in a unique angle.
And that after all brings us to the G.F.J, which isn’t a supercomplication, which is as near fireworks in superb watchmaking, as some would have anticipated…
We have now a speaking piece that pertains to what we’re…what we’re famend for; infamous for, even, however in a great way. It’s all about chronometry after all (and the various chronometry prizes earned by Zenith again within the day). The wanting it’s that we would like it (the watch) to stay one thing that may have a singular message for watch collectors, and for many who know in regards to the model and for the individuals who don’t too!
(For individuals who have no idea, the restricted version G.F.J watch is a time-only piece powered by the newest model of Zenith’s calibre 135, which the manufacture isn’t distinguishing from the 1948 authentic with a brand new designation. Again within the post-WWII period, Zenith gained a file 235 observatory chronometry prizes with a model of the unique calibre 135. As de Clerck and Marietta observe, this motion encapsulates all of the issues lovers find out about Zenith — principally, everybody who bought excited by the 2022 version, however it has been up to date with many enhancements, together with an extended energy reserve and an unbelievable price of +/-2 seconds per day. Observe the lapis lazuli dial and mother-of-pearl small seconds subdial, and the in-house developed platinum case is price a better take a look at. We shall be getting extra in-depth on this piece in a subsequent subject – Ed).
When you see the guilloche ornament on the dial, on the hour-marker chapter ring, this can be a reference to the design of the bricks on the manufacture. Additionally, you will see it on the motion plates and bridges (and the matching platinum bracelet, within the model so-equipped). This can be a lovely solution to pay tribute to our model; to pay tribute to our savoir-faire (previous and current). The watch exhibits off what we’re good at, which is craftsmanship. I might not name it low-key (in reference to my feedback, which have been edited out – Ed) however far more genuine (going past what’s regular for Swiss manufacturers resembling Zenith, at its degree).
The G.F.J is a model new watch that has by no means existed on this kind, however we perceive that you’re within the strategy of lowering references. Please inform us extra.
We’re rationalizing the gathering for positive; it’s an ongoing course of. It’s not going to be executed with a sledgehammer or (something drastic like this); it’s going to be a calculated discount as a result of I like purity, to begin with, and I like when issues are easy. At this time, I’ve to make issues simpler for my companions but additionally for all of the individuals who purchase Zenith watches. This discount of references is a programme that we’ve initiated with Romain, and it is going to be an ongoing course of. However we do have a end line as nicely.
Would this rationalisation be associated to creating the model extra approachable or maybe simpler to know? Particularly for youthful lovers and collectors?
That is one thing that we take very severely as a result of, you realize, the youthful technology is the technology of tomorrow and the technology of at the moment, truly. And we all know for a proven fact that in our boutiques and our community (of companions), we’re seeing a youthful crowd. So, that implies that at the moment, people who find themselves shopping for Zenith watches are getting youthful, which is nice information! This can be a dream come true for many manufacturers. It means we’re getting increasingly more newcomers as nicely; I’m speaking numbers right here. I can’t share the numbers, however we all know that we’re getting a youthful technology and a bigger variety of newcomers.
And that is coming naturally, and never solely naturally but additionally organically, as a result of the attraction of the model is rising. Why? As a result of at the moment, individuals, whether or not younger or not, are in search of authenticity and we’re very genuine. Individuals are in search of one thing that basically occurred; they’re in search of credible historical past (slightly than tales invented by manufacturers). Everyone seems to be welcome to go to the manufacture (which has expanded its public go to days from as soon as every week to twice) and see what we’re actually about. We have now 160 years of historical past in our buildings.
This story was first seen as a part of WOW’s #78 Imaginative and prescient 2025 Challenge
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